Current Issue : April-June Volume : 2023 Issue Number : 2 Articles : 5 Articles
Phenolic compounds are valuable cosmetic ingredients. They display skin protective potential and play an important role in preserving cosmetic formulations due to their ability to neutralize free radicals. Considering this fact, the current study aims to obtain a phenolic-enriched fraction from Arbutus unedo for topical application in cosmeceutical products. The chemical composition and the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities of different extracts from the plant were investigated and compared. Samples were obtained by maceration, reflux, and ultrasound using water and ethanol. The findings indicated that the extraction methods impacted the phytochemical composition of the extracts. The high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) analysis showed a wide range of phenolic compounds, comprising phenolic acids and flavonoids. Among the extracts, the water reflux had significant levels of both total polyphenols, flavonoids, and tannins and possessed the most important content on hyperoside. It displayed the most significant antioxidant activities with high antiradical and reducing power, as well as strong total antioxidant activity. It possesses a promising whitening effect with high anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, it shows no cytotoxicity and moderate anti-inflammatory activity. Finally, due to its high yield efficiency and activities, water reflux was selected to formulate a cosmeceutical oil-in-water nanoemulsion that displayed optimal pH and stability....
The Arctium lappa L. plant, commonly known as burdock, has been used therapeutically for hundreds of years. Arctigenin (ATG) is an active ingredient in burdock, albeit at low quantities or mostly in the form of acrtiin (arctigenin-4-glucoside). ATG has been touted for its anti-inflammatory properties in many cell types and disease states; however, its role in skin and melanin production has not been extensively studied. Our aims for this study were to develop a burdock seed extract enriched for ATG that is amenable to quasi-drug development, determine in vitro brightening activity, and evaluate safety and skin brightening efficacy clinically in human subjects. Arctiin and ATG content were measured by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). In vitro studies utilized EpiDermTM tissues for skin irritation test, and MelanoDermTM tissues for melanin reduction capacity. A 45 subject clinical study was performed in adult subjects ranging in age from 30 to 60 years old (mean = 41.9 ± 6.7) to test the safety and skin brightening potential of 1% ABSO lotion. We demonstrate by HPLC that ABSO is a natural extract that contains ~5-times more arctigenin than BSO. Furthermore, ABSO inhibits melanin production better than BSO and retains the same melaninreducing capacity as synthetic ATG in vitro in MelanoDerm™ 3D skin cultures. ABSO also adheres to quasi-drug criteria according to the Japanese Standards of Quasi-Drug Ingredients as determined by infrared absorption spectrum method, unsaponifiable matter, heavy metal and arsenic content, and acid, saponification, and iodine value methods. Clinical assessment of 1% ABSO lotion shows it is well-tolerated in human skin and demonstrates improved brightness and skin tone evenness. ABSO is a natural arctigenin-enriched burdock seed extract that reduces melanin content in vitro and clinically improves skin brightness....
Helichrysum italicum essential oil (H. italicum EO) is recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and wound-healing properties. The main goal of the present work was the development and characterization of a gel formulation comprising H. italicum EO loaded in chitosan nanoparticles (NPs) for dermatological applications. H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs presented hydrodynamic diameter and PdI of about 300 nm and 0.28, respectively, and a surface charge of +19 mV. The H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs were prepared by means of ionic gelation and then incorporated into a thermal water gel formulation. The organoleptic and physicochemical properties of the developed gel were studied. The gel remained stable under accelerated test conditions, maintaining pH, viscosity and organoleptic properties. In addition, the formulation presented pH, viscosity and spreadability properties suitable for topical application. Finally, the performance of the gel in topical application was evaluated on the skin of volunteers using non-invasive methods, particularly, by means of biometric evaluation. These assays showed that the properties of the developed thermal water-based gel formulation with H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs can improve skin hydration and maintain healthy skin conditions, demonstrating its putative role for distinct dermatological applications....
Mulberry (Morus spp.) is primarily used in sericulture, and its uses also extend to the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Mulberry extracts are rich in many bioactive compounds that exhibit a wide range of biological properties. Mulberroside F (Moracin M-6, 3-di-O-β-Dglucopyranoside), one of the bioactive compounds found in mulberry, has previously been reported as a whitening agent by inhibiting melanin synthesis and exhibiting antioxidant effects. However, there is still limited information on the presence of this compound in plants cultured in vitro. In this study, the mulberroside F content, biochemical, and cytotoxic properties of the extracts from mulberry cultured in vitro were determined. The results revealed that both root and callus were found to be a potential source of mulberroside F. Furthermore, the mulberroside F content was positively correlated with the inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity. Cell viability assay also revealed that crude extract of the mulberry root has no cytotoxicity in both human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and Vero cells. Taken together, mulberry tissue culture represents a possible alternative and continuous production of mulberroside F, which could be further utilized in cosmeceutical applications....
Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FVEE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7−14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g−1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g−1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4–13.7 g GAE 100 g−1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2–14.0 g GAE 100 g−1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF....
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